Repair of the power supply unit of the polaris air humidifier. We repair the air humidifier with our own hands - tips from the master

My air humidifier also recently broke down, without which I can’t exist normally at all. The problem was in the air intake filter, it clogged. I decided to buy a new filter, since it is very cheap, I installed it in a humidifier. Imagine my surprise when everything worked again. Frankly, I until the end believed that the problem was a malfunction of the emitter, but after I read the article, I immediately found the cause of the breakdown.

  • Pavel Sofikatov

    I have a humidifier in the children's room. It recently broke down. At first I wanted to take it in for repair, but then I decided to figure out what was the matter myself. The emitter worked, there was a characteristic "gurgling", the generator felt, it was warm. Also checked the piezoelectric element. It also functioned well. But for some reason there was no pair. Here I got confused, as the humidifier fan was working properly. The air intake filter was clogged. I ordered a new filter. Replaced, now everything works.

  • Zakhar

    My humidifier has not yet broken, but, in which case, I will try to repair it myself too. I think it will work.

  • Artem

    I have been using my humidifier for about a year now, but since I regularly clean it and also change the water in it, so far, thank God, there have been no problems with it.

  • Egor Matveev

    In the office in winter, we heat up with fan heaters, and they “dry” all the air, so we constantly use a humidifier. It works throughout the day and therefore breaks down over time. After an expensive repair, I decided to try to repair it myself. After a long disassembly and checking the performance of all parts, it became clear that the breakdown was in the piezoelectric element. I ordered it online and replaced it. I did everything myself, but it took a lot of time. Therefore, next time I'd better give it to the workshop, it will turn out more expensive but much faster. Although, if someone has a lot of free time, then you can do it yourself.

  • Ivan

    In my humidifier, the vaporization at first slightly weakened, I did not attach any importance to this, after a couple of days the steam stopped flowing completely. I thought it was a generator, I checked it, as it was written for you on heating the radiator, thank God it worked out .. As a result, I determined that it was a piezoelectric element, opened the device, photographed the wires and wrote down their location. Now the most difficult thing is to find a replacement part ... Radio shops are not a frequent occurrence in our city, I haven’t found it on the iron market, I’ll probably have to really look in online stores, although I don’t want to wait at all, we use the device every day.

  • Roma

    And I completely dismantled my ultrasonic humidifier to the screw. I checked every detail in the same order as I disassembled it. Do not believe me, I did everything except checking the voltage on the turbine windings (((. I took it to a service center, they did it for me in one day. Recently, my wife began to complain about the smell of rot from the humidifier. I bought a new one, the old one lay until today until I came across this article. As they say: “Everything ingenious is simple.” Now we have two ultrasonic humidifiers, we will be healthier :)

  • Paul

    but my humidifier works intermittently, then it gurgles weakly, then strongly. that with him xs it is necessary to measure the voltage on the element.

  • Oleg

    Tell me, I have a Rainbow humidifier, in my opinion it is not ultrasonic. Everything works, the turbine is spinning, but no steam is coming out. What is the reason?

  • Denis

    Please tell me what could be wrong. The humidifier generates steam and everything works in it, but it overflows with water. After half an hour of work, there is a puddle under it. where to look?

  • Alexander

    Hello! They asked to repair the POLARIS PUH5505DI humidifier. It failed after cleaning at the owners. The malfunction is as follows: when you turn on the steam, it takes about five seconds, and that's it. Press the button again, same thing. On the power supply, it was clear that there was a breakdown of the 4N65F field effect transistor. I replaced it, measured the power at the power supply connector: approximately 10 and 36 volts went out. The error remains. Membrane without damage. The transistor on the BU406 generator is good but replaced just in case. The error remains. The generator has an op-amp LM358L-replaced. Same. I measured the frequency on the contacts of the membrane with an oscilloscope - it appears for 5 seconds and everything disappears. Can you suggest what else needs to be checked. I don't want to give up.

  • Andrey

    Good afternoon, tell me, I purchased a new humidifier and it started to flow from the bottom in the off state, when it works it does not flow. How to repair this defect?

  • Views: 18 965 website 17.01.2017

    Once, with the help of a newspaper of free ads, I was lucky enough to almost for nothing (for only $ 4!) Buy a faulty domestic (albeit Chinese, but fairly good assembly) humidifier called Novex. “Lucky” - not only because the price was so ridiculous, but also because there was absolutely nothing to do for the next few evenings. And here - such an opportunity to work with both the head and the hands! Moreover, the repair of an ultrasonic humidifier was new to me.

    The seller reported that the performance regulator does not work. An autopsy and measurements showed: the pulsed power supply of the humidifier does not “plow”. Doesn't start at all. I still hoped that the fuse had blown or the diode had been broken, but everything turned out to be much worse: the “field worker” - a field power transistor - broke off. At the same time, the resistors were intact, the power diodes were serviceable. Only the “field” of the ultrasonic “Novex” broke off along the internal diode and, therefore, needed to be replaced (such things are not repaired). As a result (already the next day) I bought an analogue of the “departed” component.

    However, the miracle did not happen. I lubricated the new transistor with thermal paste, soldered it where it should be, turned on the ultrasonic humidifier - and in response, silence. The repair had to be continued, since the transformer had not yet been started.

    Multimeter in hand - and we call everything in a row. I started with low-power glass diodes. And when I got to the zener diodes, I found that they were in a short circuit. Soldered. I went with one zener diode to the store. True, the seller was initially pleased that he could not determine the voltage from the marking. And when together we tried to determine the value, and I said that the zener diodes were opposite in series, he completely made round eyes: they say, this does not happen. I probably wouldn’t have believed it myself, but I soldered them myself ... In short, I bought a pair of 100 volt zener diodes at my own peril and risk. And did not lose! With a new filling and a repaired power supply began to work. And, of course, the entire ultrasonic humidifier. And after rummaging through reference books, I later found out that the zener diodes are turned on in the opposite direction in order to extinguish the alternating voltage.

    By the way, when repairing an ultrasonic humidifier, I have repeatedly paid attention to the good quality of printed circuit boards. It turns out that not everything is bad that is collected in China! By the way, on the forums (the same Yandex-Market), people are satisfied with Novex. Moreover, the device is inexpensive (about a thousand rubles). At the same time, it has a large tank, good performance. There is an ionizer, or rather, an ozonator: a small glass flask with which the air flow created by the fan “meets”. True, there is almost no ozonation in my apparatus. I see only the blue glow of the flask. Most likely, this happens because of the design: one electrode is closed by a flask, and the second is a mesh that is put on this flask. At the same time, glass blocks the way for the released ozone.

    A humidifier is a healthy, fairly safe (in terms of electric shock or fire) household appliance. This is a very simple device. Repairing a humidifier with your own hands is not difficult, since neither disassembly nor some types of diagnostics are problems.

    In order to carry out repairs, it is necessary to understand the operation of the humidifier. Devices are divided into 3 groups:

    Ultrasonic humidifiers are considered the safest and most effective. Therefore, they literally dominate the modern market. Boneco, Electrolux, Bork, Venta ultrasonic humidifiers are among the best-selling brands from the sector of household appliances in question. Consider the features of their repair.

    Problems with the electrical part

    Short circuits and other electrical problems are very common. It often happens through the fault of the user or due to damage to the device due to a fall. If everything is clear with the last reason - the device fell, the gasket could move, crack part of the case, then the first one needs to be clarified.

    In the humidifier circuit, there are two technological openings with which the user interacts. Water is poured into one, steam comes out of the other. Most appliance owners have no idea how appliances work inside. Therefore, attempts to pour liquid through the steam outlet holes are repeated very often.

    The red arrow points to the water hole.

    To repair a humidifier from Electrolux, Boneko or any other brand that does not show signs of life, you must first (by unplugging the device) check:

    • availability of power supply in the socket;
    • the condition of the fuse in the plug, which is supplied with models from Venta;
    • integrity of the power cable;
    • absence of wire breaks at the points of exit from the plug and entry into the housing;

    If possible, you should try to turn on the humidifier by replacing the power supply if the model is powered by a voltage converter.

    If everything is in order, and the air humidifier does not work, you need to open the case (more on this below). Having gained access to the inside of the device, it is worth examining it for moisture. If it is, you will have to deal with the electrical part. The elimination of this problem requires the intervention of specialists.

    However, the humidifier may not start due to automatic protection blocking. To make sure that this is not the case, you need to inspect all parts of the device that use electricity. There should be no blackening or parts with an uneven color on the control board, the fan coils, if visible, should also have a uniform color.

    If visually everything is in order, it is necessary to remove all moisture from the inside of the device and dry it thoroughly for a day. Such repairs help to restore the performance of air humidifiers in most cases.

    Case opening

    Humidifiers are easily disassembled. For this:

    1. The device turns off and disconnects from the network.
    2. The water container is removed.
    3. The body is turned over.
    4. To gain access to the insides of the device, several self-tapping screws are unscrewed. They can be hidden under rubber feet. In rare cases, the case is equipped with latches that hold its parts. To search for them, you need to use a thin blade: leading it along the line of contact, you can find the place of the fastener, which should be pressed.

    After disassembling the humidifier housing, all its components will become visible. These are gaskets, a fan unit, a membrane sector, a liquid inlet pipe, a control board, various parts for converting air flow and removing steam.

    Typical malfunctions and their elimination

    Repair of the humidifier, if we are not talking about the electrical part, you can do it yourself. Faults are as follows:

    1. Unpleasant smell at work. Repairing the humidifier in this case is very simple. This is due to banal pollution and the growth of bacteria or mold. It is necessary to remove, clean and wash each of the parts, and based on the results of a visual inspection, it is possible to decide on the replacement of individual elements or the unit as a whole. Do not use harsh chemicals for cleaning. The best choice if you don't want to mess around with warm water is a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide or ammonia.
    2. The humidifier makes a sound, but the water level does not decrease. It is necessary to check the condition of the feed motor and the pressure conversion diaphragm (ultrasonic type). The cause of the breakdown may be contamination, failure of the pump, or displacement of structural elements as a result of the fall of the device. Device parts are inspected, corrected or cleaned if necessary, the device is tested.
    3. If no wisps of steam are visible, the cause is most often clogged outlet holes. You should check the outlet grille, the operation of the blowing fan, clean the filter. If there is a suspicion of engine failure, a specialist should be called.

    Most of the breakdowns of the humidifier, if we take into account the simplicity of its design, are associated with pollution. Therefore, if cleaning and checking the position of all structural elements do not bring results, and there are no visual manifestations of problems with the electrical part, it is best to seek qualified help.

    Good afternoon! Today I will tell and show as an instruction how to repair the Supra HDS-111 ultrasonic humidifier with my own hands. Do you know how to humidify the air in a room without a humidifier? Our grandmothers and mothers also did it with the help of basins of hot water and wet towels on batteries.

    On myself, I have experienced many ways to humidify a room in an apartment in a children's room. Basins take up a lot of space and work while the water is hot, that is, about half an hour. A basin with heated water consumes a lot of electricity. Wet towels on the radiator moisten the house longer. For about an hour or two, if you lower one edge of the towel into a nearby container of water, then it lasts for several hours. Cheap and cheerful - folk method. However, all these wet dances take a lot of time. Therefore, I decided to choose the best one for my family and put it in the children's room when the heating is turned on. It turns out that all pediatricians will confirm that moist, cool air is the safest for the spread of winter colds. The mucosa does not dry out and a barrier against bacteria is maintained.

    Choosing a Humidifier

    I chose for a long time and finally took, in my opinion, the optimal model in terms of price-quality-aesthetics. In general, I bought ultrasonic humidifier in a white case. A kind of egg-shaped something with backlight. In addition to the appearance and dimensions, I especially liked the adjustment of the direction of steam movement in it. Not up, but at an angle, and even a steam jet is formed quite powerful and high.

    Since the steam comes out cooled, it immediately tends to fall below the heated air. So the humidifier in the room should be placed as high as possible. I have it on my water cooler. At chest level and at the ceiling it does not hit and the steam disperses well around the room. Recently buzzed - had to be repaired.

    So today I will tell and show as an instruction how to disassemble and clean ultrasonic humidifier. First, remove the water container and carefully inspect the water pan with an ultrasonic emitter. Despite the fact that I poured only purified water into the humidifier, after six months of use, a certain dark coating appeared on the inner surfaces.

    It looks like some of the dust in the air from the room settled on the insides of the cooler and caused this plaque to appear. And on white plastic it is clearly visible. This model has a few recesses in the pallet, so everything is well washed with a toothbrush or a rag.

    To disassemble the lower part of the humidifier

    you need to drain and carefully wipe the water, turn the case over and unscrew the four screws, three of them for a Phillips screwdriver. And one with a sly hat - under.

    I want to say that this tricky self-tapping screw is easily unscrewed with an ordinary asterisk bat without a recess. The main thing is to have a bit long enough to reach the screw head.

    Inside the humidifier

    Unfortunately, most humidifiers are made in this way, so the only way out is to put a lightweight air filter in front of the fan.

    In addition to the fan, there are two boards in the humidifier case - a power supply and a control board. And what can be controlled in a humidifier, you ask? And there you can control the power of oscillations of the piezo emitter, flashing LED backlight, fan speed and monitoring of water level sensors and a thermal protection sensor. To remove the control and power boards, you need to unscrew a few screws shown in the photo.

    These deposits were not only on the contacts of the microcircuits, but also directly on the board.

    The boards of the air humidifier are prudently varnished by the Chinese, perhaps this prevents the circuits from burning out, but the coating is very uneven.

    Salt deposits even climbed onto the radioelements themselves - all this must be cleaned out.

    We especially check the contacts of the humidifier control controller - they must be well soldered, without microcracks and plaque.

    Emitter Diagnostics

    After removing the boards, you need to make sure that contact integrity and surfaces - the most important element of the humidifier. Having unscrewed two screws, remove the metal cover of the piezo emitter.

    We examine the surface of the piezo emitter - it should not have microcracks, if there are microcracks, then it's time to think about buying a new emitter that is suitable in size.

    Also checking soldered contacts for the absence of white deposits or microcracks in the solder.

    The seat for the piezo emitter should not have any deposits or irregularities in order to prevent water leakage after the humidifier is reassembled.

    To clean the humidifier fan,

    you need to disassemble the body according to the type of shell. To do this, you need to release the three latches around the perimeter of the fan housing.

    A lot of dust has accumulated on the impeller - sometimes this dust at high speeds can disturb the balance of the impeller.

    It turned out humidifier fan non-separable, that is, it has a sleeve of the impeller axis filled with plastic. In such cases, sometimes the impeller can be removed by hand. But that didn't work for me with this fan. I had to carefully drill the sealing point.

    We drill until we rest against the axis of the impeller. And constantly remove the chips so that it does not fall asleep inside.

    In principle, you can completely drill out the hole to remove the plastic washer and free the impeller axle. I acted differently - I poured alcohol into the resulting hole, twisted it, dried it, put the needle in and squeezed out the thick grease from the syringe. I turned on the fan so that the lubricant was evenly distributed along the axis and sealed the hole with a factory sticker.

    I want to say right away that this procedure did not help very well. It looks like the grease has gone badly, so next time I will disassemble this fan thoroughly. During reassembly, the fan must be glued with hot glue, as it was mounted at the factory.

    Cleaning the Humidifier Board

    After the fan, be sure to clean the boards from white plaque. It is better to wash the humidifier boards with alcohol and cover with an additional layer of varnish. This is to improve reliability and short circuit protection.

    If the humidifier board burned out, then you can pick up a similar board in.

    A humidifier is not a useful thing, even if it is customary to think otherwise. Having correctly put the matter, significantly reduce the incidence of household diseases. The main thing is to fit the relative humidity indicators in the right framework, doctors recommend a value of 45 - 60 percent. Although 65 will not cause fatal consequences. The problem is limited to the purchase of a hygrometer, although not everyone can assemble a piezoelectric steam generator. What will a DIY humidifier repairer face? We plan to discuss today.

    What are humidifiers

    With a decrease in humidity, the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract dry out. The epithelium is seeded with bacteria that find favorable conditions for reproduction. Mucus ceases to protect the surface of the cells, the microflora destroys the membranes without interference, causing infectious diseases. A knowledgeable engineer will name three designs, from strength, one differs little from an electric kettle:

    In fireplaces, the flow of water molecules is illuminated by a lamp, so a real imitation of a flame is obtained that there is a fear of getting burned. Cold jet of evaporated liquid. For the element to work, the device is equipped with a special mechanical piping. There is no other word for miracles. The tank contains a recess with a radiator, a float is located on the side. In order not to make holes in the bottom, the sensor is magnetic. When the water in the air humidifier runs out, the float goes down, the field is captured by the sensitive element of the electronic board. As a result, the device stops working.

    In Chinese models, you can find an impeller, through a small increase in the bottom, it pumps air inward. Let's try to describe the design so that buyers avoid mistakes:

    • A bowl resembling a teapot is placed on top of the housing containing the electronics.
    • In the center of the container there is a vertical vent located above the emitter.
    • Side recess, supplemented by a float.
    • The container is filled from below, the lid has a valve through which water is gradually etched.
    • The tank has the shape of a cylinder with a vent-shaped cutout; liquid seeps into the working chamber slowly.
    • For the speedy distribution of steam to the piezo element of the humidifier, a turbine hole comes out. Creates excess pressure, steam rushes out. Air sucks in from under the base, through the cracks.

    Please note that if water is poured into the vent, the liquid will flow through the turbine orifice to the electronic circuits, causing a temporary or permanent malfunction. The devices are not grounded, making them extremely life-threatening.

    Humidifier interior

    The air humidifier device includes power boards, ultrasonic frequency generation. At the same time, fungi and microbes are killed inside. Readers are familiar with the reviews of the VashTekhnik portal regarding water purifiers. Entire pools are disinfected with ultrasonic emitters; microbes have no place inside the generators. The difference is in power, you don't need much for a small tank.

    The power board generates the supply voltage of the active elements of the amplifier with positive feedback. The cascade generates oscillations. The transistor is mounted on a radiator to remove excess heat. The turbine engine is powered by a rectified voltage, we do not exclude the presence of models using 230 volts.

    First of all, we look at the nature of the malfunction. A working piezoelectric element is easy to determine by the seething of water. If no steam comes out, the turbine motor is probably the culprit. We call the windings, if in order, we measure the supply voltage. The tests carried out will help determine the cause. In the absence of movement of the piezoelectric element, the first suspicion is the generator, the quartz crystal is quite durable. You should start with a power transistor, a remote thermometer will come in handy here. When operating, the generator generates heat. Avoid putting your hand in while the humidifier is energized, you can point the remote meter to the desired point. In extreme cases, remove the plug from the outlet, feel the surface of the radiator with your finger. If it is completely cold, the chances are that the generator has broken.

    Initially, we check the supply voltage, if in order, the transistor rings. If bipolar, each junction behaves like a diode, giving low DC resistance in one direction. In the field it all depends on the type, you have to look through the directory. Sometimes the triac controls the oscillations, the probability of such a situation seems unlikely. This is not a strength unit using a cardinal approach. If this turned out to be the case, check the control pulse generator for operability.

    Capacitors are called, checked for swelling. Resistors don't have to be black (although most still work). Board tracks are checked for integrity. What else can break in a humidifier? Food fee!

    Humidifier power supply

    Usually, in modern devices, a switching power supply is used with stabilization of the voltage rectified on Schottky diodes. At the input, after the power cord, there is a block (or a pair of terminals), from which the process of converting 230 volts into the desired denomination, frequency begins. If an outdated power supply is running on a transformer that outputs 50 Hz, in our case everything is different.

    At the inlet of the humidifier, there are one or more filters at once. This includes capacitors, chokes, resistors. Each element is checked for suitability. Separately, the voltage of the high-frequency pulse generator controlled by the electrode of the thyristor, transistor, triac or other key element is formed on the zener diode. You can recognize the key by the radiator, a lot of heat is dissipated here.

    Separately, there is protection by varistors. Variable resistances that depend strongly on the applied voltage. If the voltage skyrockets, the varistor closes the circuit to ground, the fuses. Protection works, the device turns off. The varistor is at the input of the generator, there is no separate power supply for the element, naturally, it cannot consume 230 volts.

    Switching power supply fuses are replaced with low-resistance resistors. It will burn out from overload, at the same time limit the current, saving the elements of the humidifier circuit from burning. A feature of switching power supplies is that in the normal state, current does not flow through the fuses. Therefore, they use the folk method of localizing the breakdown. A light turns on in the fuse circuit, if it is lit, the troubleshooting continues.

    The diode bridge rectifies the voltage, which, after the key transistor, is supplied to the transformer by high-frequency pulses. It is possible to reduce the weight of the windings without losing power. The transformer is compact, losses are reduced. At the output of the cascade are Schottky diodes, smoothing ripple filters.

    If 230 volts is used to power the device, the high voltage lines run separately from the DC generation path. The turbine can be switched on by a relay, the voltage for which is formed by a transistor key, a zener diode. Viewed according to the diagram.

    The story about repairing a humidifier with your own hands is coming to an end. There are differences among the models, but all devices are built according to the same principle. The best ones are equipped with humidity sensors located at the inlet of the air intake path. Allows the device to turn off when the indicator reaches the set value. There must be a relay that interrupts the power to the keys in the power supply. As seen above, the causes of breakdowns of air humidifiers often lie in incorrect operation. That is why we recommend reading the instructions. By the way, models from Germany are no easier in this respect than Chinese ones. Properly operate the device, and your head will not hurt, how to fix the humidifier yourself.

    And one more thing! It is not recommended to fill the humidifier from the tap in areas with hard water. Although boiling, as such, does not occur, salts remain on the surface of the piezoelectric element, the bottom of the working chamber, forcing the device to be cleaned periodically. It is better to use bottled water, filtered or distilled.

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