A very important point is the adjustment of the clearance, otherwise called "Ground clearance". Too high values of this parameter lead to a deterioration in cornering stability (due to the “Wing” effect, the air flow lifts the car), and too low values \u200b\u200blead to a change in suspension geometry and poor handling (too low landing and high downforce require filigree control, otherwise, instead of turning you will fly off the track). But it is worth remembering that for better aerodynamics, it is necessary that the car be streamlined, that is, the rear of the car must be higher than its nose. Since there are quite a lot of parameters in the suspension settings, we will analyze each separately.
Front\Rear Shock Compression Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Compression ratio front/rear shock absorbers (Soft - Hard)
A softer suspension will absorb bumps in the road at the expense of handling. We set the maximum rigidity, since we have racing tracks, not city tracks. In addition, the rigid suspension prevents body roll when turning.
Front\Rear Shock Rebound Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Elasticity front/rear shock absorbers (Soft - Hard)
The speed at which a shock absorber returns to its original state after compression. We put on the most rigid position. The shock absorber absorbs part of the energy of the spring vibration and prevents the car from “loosening” in different directions. Soft suspension is good off-road, and we need maximum rigidity.
Front\Rear Spring Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Front/Rear spring rate (Soft - Hard)
A soft spring is needed for a comfortable ride. She will calmly “eat” the bump, and the body will not get hit. The softer the suspension, the more inconspicuous the bumps, but the worse the handling and stability. The car will "Chat" in different directions, and the behavior on the road will be unpredictable. Therefore, make the suspension as stiff as possible. Yes, this is a risk - the very first bump can lead to an uncontrollable skid, but this is irrelevant on the track, since the canvas is licked to a mirror shine
Ride Height (Low - High)
Clearance (Low - High)
It is important that the clearance matches the suspension settings. The higher the car is raised, the higher its center of gravity and, therefore, the stronger the rolls when turning. In addition, there is a very high chance of rollover. The tighter the car, the lower the center of gravity and the more precise and responsive the handling. In addition, the low landing provides better aerodynamic qualities.
Front\Rear Roll Bar Stiffness (Soft - Stiff)
Roll Stabilizer (Soft - Hard)
The anti-roll bar prevents the vehicle from rolling in a turn. Of course, a machine is not a pendulum. The swing here is barely noticeable, but very important. The fact is that the suspension of the car is designed so that the tire is parallel to the road. In a turn, the car rolls (along with the suspension, of course) and the contact area of the tire with the road decreases, which means that the grip decreases. The stiffness of the stabilizer should be set to three-quarters to improve cornering stability, but not to risk it, because an excessively stiff stabilizer can make the car behave unpredictably.
Front\Rear Tire Pressure (Low - High)
Pressure in Front\Rear tires (Low - High)
Tire pressure is an extremely important parameter for a racing car. The formula is simple: at high pressure, the car seems to fly over the road. Top speed and acceleration are better, but grip is worse. If the pressure is low, the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the road is larger, which means better grip, but speed characteristics are worse. The best option: in the driving wheels, make the pressure lower, and in the driven ones - higher
Camber (Positive - Negative)
Camber
Camber is the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. To put it simply, when looking at the wheel from the front (with wheels level), the level position is neutral camber. If the top of the wheel sticks out, it is negative camber; if lower - positive. Negative camber is used only in circuit racing on the oval, and even then only on the inside wheels, so that the contact of the tire with the track is maximum. Positive camber improves handling, because the car seems to cling to the road, but the tire wears out quickly in this position of the wheel, and the maximum speed decreases. We conclude that the convergence should be set closer to the "Plus", but not far from the neutral position
toe (Positive - Negative)
Convergence (Positive - Negative)
Convergence - the angle between the direction of movement and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Positive toe is when the wheels point inward, and negative toe out. Negative toe improves handling by providing sharper steering feedback. Positive increases stability on the road. The setting depends on the specific track, but in general it looks like this: if there are a lot of high-speed turns on the track, it is better to give preference to stability. And if there are more slow, tight turns, try moving the slider to a negative position.
caster (Positive - Negative)
Kingpin tilt (Positive - Negative)
Increasing the tilt of the kingpin increases the stability of the machine on the trajectory and the speed on the straight line at the expense of poor controllability. The deterioration is insignificant, so put it in the extreme right position
Steering Response Ratio (Loose - Stiff)
steering feedback (Loose - Rigid)
This value adjusts the steering sensitivity. Stiff steering helps to clearly pass a series of sharp turns, but at high speed any inaccuracy will lead to loss of stability and make the car uncontrollable. At speeds above three hundred kilometers per hour, a wrong move will cost you a car.
Tire settings do not affect speed. Higher level packages improve starting acceleration, but more speed is lost in corners (apparently due to different traction). Depending on the route, the necessary packages should be selected, so there are no specific instructions. Try and check.
Engine
For all engine parameters, the optimal position, as in the previous parts of the game, is +10, that is, all the power falls on maximum speed. No wonder, because it is at maximum speed that the whole race takes place.
Nitrous (Nitro)
Nitric oxide has only two parameters - pressure and injection force. We set the maximum pressure and the highest injection level. Both parameters regulate the increase in speed and power of the engine. Too high a value can lead to slipping and loss of control, too small - to the fact that the nitro will burn out, and you will not even notice it
Gearbox (Drive train)
Unlike the Carbon, here the gearbox setting is logical: short gears give quick acceleration and, accordingly, a low top speed. Long ones allow you to gain more speed, but the tachometer needle gets to high speeds much longer. Start running the track at the factory settings of the box, and having understood at what speeds it is best to take turns on the track, select the gear ratios.
Brakes
Brake settings do not affect speed, but with the third level package the car is faster than with the factory one. What caused this is not clear. Standard lottery Need for Speed
Genre: Race
Developer: EA Black Box
Publisher: Electronic Arts
Localization: Soft Club
Game site http://www.ea.com
Release date: November 13, 2007 in the US, November 23, 2007 in Europe
Platforms: XBOX 360™, PlayStation3®, PlayStation2™, Wii, Playstation®Portable, Nintendo DS™, PC-CD, Mobile
Game description:
The most expensive cars from around the world, breathtaking tuning, xenon light and unrealistic speeds - illegal racing has always attracted daredevils on the fastest masterpieces of the automotive industry. But over time, culture and fashion change. Fans of fast driving came out into the light and stopped hiding from the police: new competitions are officially held on special tracks in all parts of the world. The hobby of the "golden youth" has turned into an independent sport with its own rules, sponsors and champions.
The new part of the famous racing series Need for Speed changes after the races themselves. No more hiding from the authorities and taking risks in illegal races. Now the most dangerous enemy is not the police, but cunning and swift rivals. They act aggressively and at any moment are ready to cut the opponent's car or push it into a ditch, turning it into a shapeless pile of iron. The era of immortal cars is over! Any four-wheeled horse can be smashed to smithereens: literally everything crumples and falls off - the hood, bumpers, spoilers, roof, fenders, windows and even wheels. ProStreet is not just another episode of the series, it is a new level of realism and entertainment available to everyone!
Game Features:
The damage system will teach caution. Beware of collisions with other cars and hitting concrete blocks, otherwise you risk turning the chrome-plated beauty into a pile of useless trash. You can break, crush or tear off any part. After each race, you will have to repair the car, choosing between replacing old parts or restoring them - after all, new ones cost a lot of money.
Improved tuning system. The slightest change in the appearance of the car affects its behavior. Reducing the angle of the spoiler or the height of the bumper affects the aerodynamic performance. A standard car can be turned into a rocket that develops space speeds, but it will not be easy to cope with it.
Fine tuning of the engine. The motor is paid no less attention than the external details. It can be carefully adjusted to achieve the desired effect. From now on, it is the “stuffing” under the hood, and not ostentatious delights, that is the most important part of the car.
Licensed car park. You will meet many cars from the most famous concerns. Among them are the BMW M3, Mazda RX-7, Toyota Corolla GTS AE86 and Nissan GT-4 Proto. The game features models from two dozen famous manufacturers.
Cutting edge graphics. Models of cars are so similar to their real prototypes that the line between the game and life is melting before our eyes. Beautiful clouds, sky, spectacular sunsets and sunrises, spectators near the track and clouds of thick smoke escaping from under the wheels further enhance the sense of reality of what is happening.
Question answer
№1
Question:
Where can I download music from the game?
Answer:
http://www.nfs-zone.net/nfsps-soundtracks
№2
Question:
Is there a demo (beta) and where can I download it?
Answer: There is. Mirror 1 ,
Mirror 2 ,
Mirror 3 ,
Mirror 4.
№3
Question:
What cars are in the game?
Answer: Here is the complete list: http://www.nfs-zone.net/nfsps-carlist
№4
Question:
How many races are there in the game?
Answer: There are four in total:
-
GRIP(Close Сircuit) - Closed circuit race (Or simply in the people - circles)
-
Drift- Known since the first Underground! Skids, points - VICTORY! Drift mode will be different from that of NFS Carbon thanks to new physics.
-
Drag- Race in a straight line from point A to point B with manual gear shifting (Drag)
-
Speed challenge- It will take place mainly on long tracks. At high speeds, you will drive on straight, flat roads with almost no turns. But when you try to drive, the game will turn into off-road, as driving at such speeds will be very dangerous.
№5
Question: Does the game support DX 10?
Answer: NO. DX9 only
№6
Question: I heard that the game has a Russian language, how to activate it?
Answer: Download archive -> NFS ProStreet Lang Change(Unzip to game folder)
№7
Question: Where are game saves stored?
Answer: In folder My Documents. Start -> My Documents -> NFS ProStreet
№8
Question: How to pass "Willy"?! Whatever I do, the car does not stand on the "rack"!
Answer: I need to buy a 1969 Dodge Charger R/T car. As a quick option: buy #3 quick tuning kits for power and grip - that's it.
As an alternative: engine, turbine, transmission, suspension, tires level 3, nitro 2nd.
Make settings in tuning: in the engine, the valve timing to a minimum, H2O injection to the maximum, in the transmission, the first gear is 3/4, the rest are 1/4, do not touch the main one.
Advice from vk6666:
the best car for the "Wheelie" mode (in the Russian beaver translation "Willy")
this is a dodge charger r \ t with a maximum dvigla pack (I have a 4th level of turbine, nitra, and dvigla) I think the 3rd level of upgrades is also suitable, but I tried it on 4m, in "tuning" in the "engine" section, all parameters are set to " high", and we get a charger about 974 mares...
in gears, the setting of the first two is short, the third and 4 are normal
the last long one (this is 1/2 mile even better), 1/4 mile - do not lengthen the last gears
then - the car starts, we try to get into the Perfect shift, and we succumb to the nitro at the beginning of the 4th gear, and then we also switch to the green area ...
result: the whole track is on its hind legs, that is, according to game measurements, 409 meters (for some reason, and not 402), he personally scored 409 meters in 3 races in a row ...
advice from
nighthorror
In order to win a wheelie - no special costs are needed - enough:
Dodge Charger 1pc.
Engine level 2.
Suspension level 2.
Checkpoint level 3.
Turbine level 3.
Tires level 3.
Nitro level 1.
Next, pull the 5th gear to the maximum.
We adjust the suspension - the front axle is hard, the rear axle is soft.
№9 Question: How to remove PUNK BUSTER, which is installed and launched along with the game, taking away some of the resources (Only for the pirated version) so that the game does not break on the Internet?
Answer: Uninstall (for Windows XP):
1) Go to Control Panel -> Administrative Tools -> Services, find PnkBstrA and disable this service in properties
2) Go to the c ProStreet folder and delete the PB folder
3) go to Windows/system32 and delete PnkBstrA.exe, PnkBstrB.exe
4) Start -> Run -> regedit -> Edit -> Find -> Punk Buster, there are 2 partitions, delete them (this step is optional)
5) Restart the computer
№10
Question: is it possible, for example, to assign a car for a dredge as a drift car and vice versa?
Answer: each car can be assigned to any type of race: go into the garage, select a car from which you want to change the destination and press the number 2 (but after the change, all packages installed on the car are reset)
№11 Question: Does the game have a free life like most wanted, when freedom of movement + role-playing system and you can ride anywhere and anytime?
Answer: There is not. You can only ride on trails.
№12
Q: Are there cheat codes in Need For Speed™ Pro Street and where do I enter them?
Answer: Yes, I have. They must be entered in the career mode in the column code entry
mitsubishigofar- Adds a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution to the garage
zerozerozero- Adds a Volkswagen Golf GTi to the garage
worldslongestlasting- Adds a Dodge Viper SRT-10 to the garage
unlock all things- Adds to the garage: Nissan 240SX, Pontiac GTO, Chevrolet Cobalt SS and Dodge Viper (With tuning). Parts of the 4th level are opened in the store (after a reboot, they also disappear, but if you put them on a wheelbarrow, they will remain on the wheelbarrow)
For eternal money you need to download the trainer
collectorsed- Unlocks the options of the collector's version of the game, namely, adds five new exclusive cars:
Acura Integra LS 2001, Acura NSX 2005, Lexus IS350 2006, Audi RS4 2006 and Pontiac Solstice GXP 2006;
Adds four more racing weekends to the game.
After restarting, the code must be entered again.
№13
Question: How to get rid of friezes during the game.
Answer: At the moment, only replacing the processor with a dual-core one helps in this. In some rare cases, friezes do not disappear on Core2Duo. People with single-core processors and Core2Duo owners who have friezes will have to wait for a patch that will fix this problem.
№14
Question: My races are not starting or the weekend is endlessly loading, what should I do.
Answer: This is caused by editing the registry entry into Russian. It is cured by rewriting back to English with
№15
Question: Are there any patches or updates to the game.
Answer: Yes, I have:
The patch for Need For Speed Pro Street is finally out today. It fixes a lot of bugs and adds a Lan Mode to the game in which you can play with your friends on-line.
The patch also adds previously inaccessible cars to the game (Bugati Veyron, Honda S2000, Seat LEON, Plymouth Road Runer...) and new tracks (Porshe test site in Leipzig, Tokyo Highway)
The patch size is 230MB.
List of changes and additions:
Gameplay fixes, glitches and game bug fixes!
Support for LAN mode (Ability to play on the local network)!
Promised Booster Pack (2 new tracks and 16 new cars)!
This patch is for the European DVD version of the game!
NFS Pro Street Patch v1.1 (Rest of Europe) 227.3 MB
NFS Pro Street Patch v1.1 (US - English) 228 MB (HKZonda, Reloaded, Vitaly)
№16
Question: After updating the game to version 1.1, codes are not entered
Answer: Need to download This little utility.
After patching the nfs.exe file (version 1.1), start the game, enter the following 4 cheat codes in the career:
SAAM-CE
- open Collectors Edition Pack (5 cars)
SAAM-BP1
- open Booster Pack 1 (7 cars)
SAAM-BP2
- open Booster Pack 2 (7 cars)
SAAM-UNL
- replaces cheat code "unlockallthings"
№17
Question: Where can I download saves for the game
Answer:
NFS ProStreet Save 1.0
NFS ProStreet Save 1.1
NFS ProStreet SaveGame Unlock Cars -
SaveGame with 178 cars
№18 Question: What should be done if something does not work, or there are departures in a car dealership for a Bugatti Veyron, or any other car?
Reply from vk6666:
1. install patch 1.1 for YOUR VERSION of the game.
2. We put this magic patch on it: PATCH
yes, it seems to be like it is "but CD" but in fact this archive contains 2 files: nfs.exe and a list of cars file, that is, now the cars are displayed correctly, the exe file no longer gives errors, BUT the codes do not work ... and then we put this miracle here:
3.
MIRACLE in fact, it gives us the ability to use the new executable, here are the very codes (See above)
№19
Question: What are the "bosses" in Need For Speed™ Pro Street and how to win them
Answer from
vk6666:
In the game, as you noticed, there are five "bosses", that is, "kings" of each type of race, plus one main one, for all types of races, and naturally everyone wants to defeat them, I offer some tips that allow you to defeat these gentlemen as best as possible faster:
1.Drag King (Karol Monroe)
everything is quite simple with this gentleman - he performs on a frank shed, namely on the Ford Mustang GT 2006, which has only 551 hp under the hood, respectively, if your unit has more than 700 horses - you will defeat him without straining like in half a mile, and in quarter-mile races, but how to win in Wheelie is written above. I’ll make a reservation right away - in this type of race he gains a maximum of 250 meters, and if you followed the advice for passing Wheelie, then 380-409 meters is guaranteed to you, which will give you an absolute victory.
2. Drift King (Aki Kamura)
there are also quite a few tricks here, but if you know how to make a continuous skid on the entire track, then this friend is also not afraid of you. car - Mazda RX7 1995, under 500 horses (very, by the way, clumsy)
He scores from 2800 to 3400 points on any track, i.е. you just need to do at least a little more - and your victory.
3. Grip King (Ray Krieger)
the first time you see him, there is a strong feeling that he either bought the rights, or his friends gave him ... his car is a BMW M3 E92 2008, about 500 horses.
he doesn’t know how to drive at all, moreover, if you scare him with unpredictable idiocy like nitro before the turn, and next to him, then he himself will also catch the roof. and if you don’t touch him, he often doesn’t enter turns .. moreover, in the races on the way to him you will come across a much more harmful rival - Rudy Chen on a Porsche 911 Turbo 2006, which copes much better with turns and straights, and if you defeated him, then the flu king is not terrible for you at all. The only thing to remember is that the tracks in competition with this king will be winding, and accordingly you need to take something like a Subaru Impreza, Mitsubishi EVO 9 or X, Lancia Delta, or any of the supercars tuned accordingly.
a small note: his car is a frank bucket of bolts, it is simply stupid to participate in circuit races on it - it drives a car, plus it is clumsy. so sell it as soon as you win...
4. Speed King (Nate Denver)
car - Pontiac GTO 1965, if memory serves - about 700 horses.
this guy drives very well and very fast, almost never makes mistakes, but exactly what is practical: on two races of the Speed Challenge there is his favorite turn with cacti, where he flies every second race, i.e. if he did overtake you, and he came to the finish line first (this turn is at the end of the track) - do not be shy, restart the race, and he will definitely glide into the ditch ..
and on Top Speed Run there are only 4 checkpoints - just turn on the nitro before each one, and victory is yours (first release the king forward so as not to interfere)
5. Showdown King (Ryo Watanabe)
this is the most harmful organism in the game, car Mitsubishi Lancer Evo IX MR-edition 2006 751 hp
drives very well, competes in all types of races:
a). Drag - there are two competitions with him, Wheelie and a half-mile drag along a rough track with a mountain in the middle, everything is simple with Wheelie, he gains no more than 200 meters, and the rest we look above, this is the easiest type of racing with him.
for a half mile drag you need to take a very stable car, or all-wheel drive (Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 2006 works well)
or rear-wheel drive, but then turn on the nitro after the exit from the hill, in 6th gear. otherwise he will lead, the "king" himself 2 out of three times catches the roof when passing the mountain, once he still levels out and arrives with a big delay (although once I saw that he still did not make a mistake, and drove as it should, the result he has 12.9 sec)
b) Speed is the most dreary type of racing (IMHO) because the track is full of ditches, and in order to overtake it, you have to drive very fast and carefully, which is not always the case with supercars.
possible options - in one of 10 races, he catches a roof in a random place on the track, then we just drive to the end at low speed, and we win.
second: we are trying to overtake him, but we need a fast and stable car, which is achieved only by fine tuning.
third: we take any barge and not far from the start we try to dump it into a ditch - it usually comes out from the 5th time, well, then by 150 and slowly we reach the finish line ..
c) Grip - here it is also very strong - only a nimble and VERY fast car will help, with the shortest gears, and maximum brake pressure (done in the car settings) muscle cars will not work here at all, I personally went through this race on a Ford GT (the most maneuverable from supercars).
the tracks are all a mix of straights and 180 degree turns.
d) Drift - here we look at everything that I wrote about Drift King - he scores the same points. only port routes are the most inconvenient ..
№20
Question: Which cars are best for Drift, Drag, Grip and Speed.
Answer from
vk6666:
So, I’ll make a reservation right away - we will talk about version 1.1 of the game, and about the most difficult game mode "King" with disabled "helpers", i.e. you can't make it harder.
1. Drift
in this type of racing, any car will suit you in principle, but I will still highlight a few models:
a) "Japanese" - a funny thing 1986 Toyota Corolla GT-S AE86 - cheap and effective at first
the 1998 Toyota Supra and 1999 Nissan Silvia S15 are also very good, just easy to drive and responsive cars.
b) "Americans" - here I want to note the 1971 Dodge Challenger and 1970 Plymouth Hemi Cuda - swing up to 868 and 960 horses, respectively, are very agile, and will pull you out of any turn (in general, like the supra) plus, due to the greater mass of the car, the specifics of control different from the "Japanese", but it's already "taste and color", for example, you can hold the brake and at the same time turn on the gas, winding the glasses around the corner of the skid and behind the smoke ... well, I note that I personally scored against the king of drift and Ryu Watanabe in two times more points on these two muscle cars. and my personal record is 7900 points for the track - on the challenger ..
and a small addition - there are two excellent barges - 1968 Plymouth Road Runner and 1967 Dodge Charger - this is better to use on tracks where the radius of continuous drift is very large - then these armadillos will shove with excellent speed along such turns, and continuous drift, as you know - the longer the better.
2. Drag
in this type of racing, almost all cars can be brought to mind, but I think we need to dwell on a few separately:
excellent solutions for a minimum of money, plus excellent stability throughout the route, this is undoubtedly
2006 Pontiac GTO
1967 Dodge Charger
1998 Toyota Supra
and in a separate article the expensive cheating car 2006 Pagani Zonda F - it has results for 402 meters on average 6.5 seconds, according to some statements it was 5.9 ... but this car costs money, and all records were set naturally on a full upgrade of the 4th level
3.Grip
The undoubted leader is the cheap and very frisky 1991 Lancia Delta Integrale Evo, which, at maximum buildup, gives only 421 hp, but at the same time you can defeat everyone and everything, including Mr. Ryu.
further - attention is deserved by such machines as
2008 Porsche 911 (997) GT2
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
2006 Ford GT
2006 Koenigsegg CCX
The McLaren F1 also stands out, which (with a full upgrade) can enter a 90º turn at a speed of 180 km / h ... the only minus of the McLaren F1 is its price.
these cars, with the shortest gears (done in the "tuning" section), stiff suspension and maximum brake pressure (all the same) - are simply ideal in handling and acceleration, which makes them excellent in this class of racing. But you also need to make one car for the "oval" track that you come across towards the end of the game - here any car that can be pumped over 800 hp is taken, its gears are pulled to the maximum, and sluggish steering is made - then on the oval you will be the first. and what to take - it's a matter of taste ..
but for perverts I can advise
two more models:
1967 Chevrolet Corvette C2 (Sting Ray)
2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
you can effectively take turns on them only with the help of a controlled skid, and not be afraid, but enter at fairly high speeds, but you still need to be able to do this, but acceleration after the turn is simply devilish (again, do not forget about short gears and the strongest possible brake)
4.Speed
all-wheel drive and fast cars are good here, as well as almost all supercars
I would especially like to highlight the following models:
2007 Audi RS4
1999 Nissan Skyline R34
2006 Lamborghini Murciélago LP640
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX MR edition
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X
2006 Ford GT
for their excellent stability.
who cares - the king of speed and Ryu I passed on a 2007 Audi RS4, and it was much easier than on my previous 2008 Porsche 911 (997) GT2 ..
and finally, a general comment about the two machines:
1. 2006 Bugatti Veyron 16.4 - no matter how cool she looks, no matter how tempting her 407 km / h is, this is just a show off, she will not be better in any of the classes of the above outstanding cars .. while she is not subjected to any what upgrade, except for the body shape and color. that is, neither tuning, nor improvement of the power unit, nor nitro is available to you ...
2. 2008 Nissan GT-R Proto - Upgradeable, Tuneable, but visual changes are locked. and even though it can be pumped up to 1400 mares, it is also no better in terms of usability, and somewhere noticeably worse than the above cars.
Thanks to vk6666 And @_lex for help in creating the FAQ.
MECHANICAL TUNING
Complete guide
1. Introduction.
Need for Speed ProStreet- the first attempt by EA to move away from the main line of the series genre in the direction of legal competitions in racing disciplines. The game received a lot of feedback, both positive and negative. However, this game still has a sufficient number of fans who liked races of this kind - legalized competitions for street racing fans. But not everyone can figure out and master the tuning system that was implemented in the game; sometimes the names of the settings and hints not only make it difficult to understand the principle of operation, but are also misleading. To correct the situation, I tried to put together the available material and uncover the veil of secrecy in the intricacies of tuning car parameters.
2. General provisions.
In Need for Speed ProStreet, mechanical tuning is divided into 4 groups:
- suspension tuning - the most extensive and indigestible group of settings, which, nevertheless, has the maximum effect when tuning driving characteristics;
- engine tuning - no less important group responsible for traction characteristics. The settings in this group have a greater effect on vehicle acceleration;
- transmission tuning - another group of settings that affect acceleration and speed;
- brake tuning - a group of settings that optimize the operation of the vehicle's braking system. It may seem that these are the least important settings, however, the speed and quality of passage of certain sections of the track directly depend on properly adjusted brakes, which affects the final result of the race.
In the next part of the manual, all settings will be described in as much detail as possible.
3. Detailed description of settings.
3.1. Suspension.
As already noted, the correct suspension setup is the key to a successful finish. Why this is so - you will understand when you read to the end of this part. It is worth noting that the developers included in this group also the controllability setting (steering sensitivity) and tire pressure adjustment. All settings of this group can be divided into several subgroups, namely:
- adjustment of springs and shock absorbers;
- clearance adjustment;
- adjustment of the stiffness of the cross beams;
- tire pressure adjustment;
- wheel alignment adjustment;
- steering sensitivity adjustment.
Let's move on to a direct consideration and description of the settings of each subgroup.
SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS.
Compression level front and rear shock absorbers determines the speed at which the shock absorbers will respond (compress) to interaction with road surface irregularities. Softening the compression level (setting the engine to the left) will smooth out the effect of road bumps, but will worsen the car's handling, and vice versa.
Rebound level front and rear shock absorbers determines the rate at which shock absorbers return to their initial state. For optimal results, the developers recommend setting the rebound levels to be the same as the compression levels.
The stiffness level of the front and rear springs. Two factors depend on the settings of these parameters - the reaction of the car body to bumps and the steering of the car. Stiffer springs will increase steering, but will also increase sensitivity to bumps in the road. Softening the springs will have the opposite effect.
In order to fully understand the mechanisms of action of shock absorbers and springs, as well as the main difference between them, let's draw an analogy. Imagine the usual, most simple ... cart. In fact, this is a car consisting of a body, a wheel frame and no suspension. The wheel frame is rigidly tied to the body, which is why any unevenness in the road surface through the wheels is reflected on the body. To reduce the effect of potholes on the road, we will separate the frame from the body and place springs between them. The difference will be felt immediately: the reaction to bumps will become softer, the body will shake much less, the sensations will be as if you are in a boat. However, according to the laws of physics, any division of a whole object into its constituent parts also separates the physical forces that take place in each of the new parts. Imagine again a cart without springs entering a turn: since this is a single whole, then it will turn quite well. But as soon as the body is separated from the frame, it begins to “live its own life”: when entering a turn, the frame follows the desired course, but the body tries to move straight by inertia! However, the springs fulfill their connecting role and drag the body behind the frame. It can be assumed that the stiffer the springs, the better the steering of the cart (the force that, by inertia, tells the cart body to move forward will decrease), but at the same time, the sensitivity of the body to bumps and potholes will increase. By softening the springs, we will get the opposite effect, that is, we will reduce the steering of the cart, and at the same time the sensitivity to irregularities will also decrease. Now consider the effect of spring rate on the front and rear of the car (cart). Given the above, it can be argued that softening the front springs will reduce steering and increase the likelihood of demolition of the front of the car on rear-wheel drive vehicles. Increasing the stiffness of the front springs will lead to improved handling, and the effect will be more pronounced in front-wheel drive cars. Softening the rear springs will increase the rear end of the car (which is more favorable for drifting), especially under hard braking. Increasing the stiffness of the rear springs will increase handling (skid control) in rear-wheel drive cars.
Let's get back to our cart. By installing springs, we reduced the impact of road bumps on the body, but after a certain period of time we realize that comfort has not increased to the extent that we would like. Sharp changes in the vertical direction (large potholes or stones) will still be felt by the body. To avoid the influence of irregularities in such situations, so-called shock absorbers - shock absorbers are installed. Their direct task is to reduce the effect of vertical disturbances that occur when driving on the road surface. Despite the seemingly simple function, everything is not so simple here either. The figure shows a combined system that combines a spring (red) and a shock absorber (blue). The principle of operation of a shock absorber is similar to a pump: the piston moves inside a cylinder filled with gas or liquid. The occurrence of unevenness under the wheel causes the piston to move up, which ensures smoothing of sharp blows; then the resistance forces in the cylinder push the piston back, thereby returning the wheel position to its original state. Consider the effect of shock absorber stiffness on handling, as well as the processes during compression and rebound. Setting a soft (slow) compression will reduce the impact of potholes on the car body, but at the same time increase the wheel travel in the vertical direction, which will negatively affect handling, since the wheel will continue to move up by inertia after overcoming an obstacle, until it loses contact with the road surface. Setting a hard (fast) compression will eliminate the sag effect and increase traction, but at the same time increase the impact of bumps on the car body due to insufficient piston travel inside the shock absorber. A hard (fast) rebound will allow the wheel to quickly recover to its original position, which will restore traction, respectively, faster, while a soft (slow) rebound will contribute to the slow return of the wheel to its place, which will also negatively affect handling due to loss of traction. expensive. According to the recommendations of the developers, the compression and rebound levels should match. Whether or not to follow these recommendations is up to you, but practice shows that sometimes mismatched settings lead to much better results. And a couple of words about setting the front and rear shock absorbers. As with springs, the effect is different depending on how your car is driven. In the case of rear-wheel drive, it is desirable to have stiff rear shock absorbers to provide maximum grip on the surface, a similar situation for front-wheel drive cars. Hopefully, now everyone understands the difference between springs and shock absorbers: springs soften the impact of road irregularities, separate the body from the chassis and act in all directions; shock absorbers smooth out elevation changes on the road and work only in the vertical direction.
CLEARANCE.
Clearance determines the distance between the lowest point of the car body (bottom) and the road surface. Despite the seeming simplicity of setting, there are complex physical processes behind this parameter. General principles: high ground clearance will increase the likelihood of a car overturning in corners and worsen braking; too low clearance will increase the chance of touching the bottom of the road surface, which will lead to problems in handling on bumps, however, on flat roads, the stability of the machine will increase markedly. Ground clearance adjustment is usually closely related to damper stiffness: stiffer damping systems can significantly reduce ground clearance, and vice versa, increasing ground clearance will allow you to install softer shock absorbers.
CROSS BEAMS.
One of the most mysterious settings. Let's try to figure it out: the cross beams help prevent radial drift of the car when cornering. When the car begins to enter a turn, for example to the left, the body of the car continues its inertial movement forward, thereby counteracting the movement to the left and dragging the car to the right. To compensate for this effect, cross beams were added to the car's design, rigidly connecting the left and right sides of the suspension. When the right side of the suspension begins to compress during a turn, it tries through the crossbeam to cause the opposite effect on the other side of the suspension, that is, to raise it. But this is physically impossible due to the rigid fixation of the other end of the beam. The torsion resistance that occurs in the beam when it is twisted prevents further subsidence of the right side and returns it to its original position.
Based on the above, it can be assumed that an increase in the rigidity of the transverse beam will improve the steering of the car, while the effect of demolition of the front end will be less pronounced. However, the excessive rigidity of the beam predisposes the car to rear end skidding, which makes the car uncontrollable in sharp turns.
TIRE PRESSURE.
Tire pressure has a direct bearing on the area of contact between the tire and the road surface and therefore has an impact on the steering performance of the vehicle. According to the formula,
Area = Mass / Pressure
that is, there is an inverse dependence of the contact area on pressure. It is clear that the higher the tire pressure, the smaller the contact area with the road and, conversely, with a decrease in tire pressure, the contact area increases. How does this affect steering? Everything is also simple: the smaller the area of contact with the road, the easier it is to make the wheels slide on it. By increasing the pressure in the front tires, we will increase the likelihood of front end drift; by increasing the pressure in the rear tires, we will increase the likelihood of skidding the rear of the car.
A LITTLE REAL MAGIC.
Perfectly this science (adjusting the position of the wheels, or adjusting the alignment) is owned only by a select few who do these things every day in production or tire fitting. Let's try to expose this magic and shed light on the most secret places of autotuning.
So, get acquainted: TOE (convergence), CAMBER (collapse) and CASTER (caster).
First, let's define terminology. Toe-in is the angle between the plane of wheel rotation and the normal direction of travel. Camber is the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Custer is the angle between the vertical and the axis of rotation of the wheel. Let's look at each option in more detail.
Convergence determines driving stability and steering when cornering. Positive convergence (toe-in) increases stability in a straight line, but worsens understeer; negative convergence (toe-out) acts in the exact opposite way - it significantly improves control when cornering, but at the same time, increased sensitivity worsens stability when driving in a straight line. It is clear that a positive convergence is better to choose for high-speed fast races with smooth turns, while a negative one is better suited for short race tracks full of turns of varying degrees of difficulty. And yet, front-wheel drive cars should preferably have a slight negative toe, rear-wheel drive - a slight positive, all-wheel drive - neutral. These preferences are determined solely by the physics of the processes during movement and can complement the settings described just above.
collapse determines the quality of tire adhesion to the road. Mostly in all cases, the camber should be neutral, this will provide the maximum contact area of the wheel with the surface of the coating and increase stability in control. It is allowed to install a small negative camber, this will slightly improve cornering. It is believed that positive camber is unacceptable, since it significantly impairs vehicle handling. But a great secret is hidden here: if you approach the issue without too much zeal and with special care, you can increase acceleration and speed, thereby achieving better results in passing the track. But I will not recommend it, because this is the case when stability and control are much more important.
Custer determines the sensitivity of the control. It's just that simple. Positive caster is almost always set (as in motorcycles), which improves straight-line stability at high speeds. However, on short winding tracks, a small negative caster is allowed: this will allow you to go through corners at a slightly higher speed.
STEERING SENSITIVITY.
There is nothing military in this adjustment: setting the engine to the right will make the reaction to the steering wheel turn more responsive, moving the engine to the left position will reduce the sensitivity of the car to turning the steering wheel.
What you should know when choosing the desired position of the engine: approaching the extreme positions can lead to inadequate results, such as skidding the rear and demolition of the front. What it is is shown in the pictures below.
Skid (oversteer)- a consequence of setting high (stiff) control sensitivity.
Demolition (understeer)- a consequence of setting low (loose) control sensitivity.
Wheel position at controlled skid (countersteer). The technique most commonly used in rally racing and drifting.
3.2. Engine.
All settings described below affect vehicle acceleration and driving speed. The main quantities used in this kind of settings are torque (torque) and power, expressed in horsepower (horsepower). In this case, the following relationship takes place: an increase in settings in favor of acceleration (an increase in torque) will cause a decrease in maximum speed (a decrease in power), and vice versa. What to give preference to depends on the type of race and the type of track.
As with the suspension, engine settings can be divided into three subgroups:
- adjustment of the valve timing;
- turbocharging adjustment;
- nitro adjustment.
Let us shed some light on these mysteries.
PHASES OF GAS DISTRIBUTION.
Valve timing is the main component of the balance of power and engine torque. To fully understand the ongoing processes, you need to read a dozen and a half good-quality articles describing the operation of an internal combustion engine. I'll try to do this in a couple of pages. Below is a diagram of a typical four-stroke internal combustion engine. Its working cycle consists of four cycles, successively replacing each other for two revolutions of the axis:
1 cycle - the inlet of the fuel-air mixture into the working area;
2 stroke - compression of the mixture caused by the upward stroke of the piston;
3 stroke - expansion, or stroke, caused by the explosion of a compressed fuel mixture, while the piston moves down;
4 stroke - release of exhaust gases.
Then everything repeats.
Designations:
intake cam- intake camshaft exhaust cam- exhaust camshaft spark plug- spark plug, intake valve- inlet valve, exhaust valve- Exhaust valve, piston- piston, connecting rod- connecting rod, crank- crankshaft fly wheel- flywheel, clutch- clutch, gearbox- reducer (gearbox).
From the above diagram and a brief description of the operation, it can be seen that the distribution phase is the period of time between the inlet and outlet of the fuel-air mixture. To change this time, various technical solutions are used: from changing the initial position of the camshaft to the use of automatic systems for adjusting the distribution phase. I will give an example of one of the simple solutions - replacing the camshaft. The figure shows an example of an oversized camshaft (left) and a conventional camshaft (right). Due to the steeper eccentric bevels, the intake valve opens earlier and stays open longer than with the standard shaft. This causes the flow of a larger volume of combustible mixture into the cylinder, which in turn provides a microexplosion of greater power and, as a result, an increase in the rotation speed.
Let's go directly to the adjustment. Setting the engine in the direction of advance (advance) will shift the boundary between the separation of torque and power (see formula above) towards higher speeds. This will lead to an increase in overall power, and, consequently, the speed of the car. On the contrary, setting the engine to the left, in the direction of delay (retard), will shift this border towards low revs and improve acceleration.
TURBOCHARGING
Strengthening (boost) forcing air into the intake manifold (intake manifold), in which the fuel is mixed with air, affects the resulting mixture: the more air there is in this mixture, the more power can be obtained from the engine's combustion chamber. Start boost affects low engine speeds, thereby improving acceleration. End boost (end boost) affects high speed and contributes to the speedy achievement of maximum speed. Setting the sliders to the right enhances the effect, and to the left reduces it. A few words about the difference between a turbocharger (turbo) and a supercharger (super-charger). Despite the equivalent tasks performed by both systems, the differences in the principle of operation are quite strong.
Turbocharger(left) runs on exhaust gases, which, getting from the engine into the turbine compartment (through the brown pipe), rotate it and at the same time the compressor wheel. The compressor draws in air from the atmosphere, compresses it and sends it under pressure to the intake manifold. Supercharger(right) activated by direct connection to the engine via a belt drive: one of the compressor rotors being driven activates the second rotor; untwisting, this system sucks in air and also sends it to the intake manifold. Both systems have their drawbacks: the turbocharger is a power failure at low revs due to a lack of exhaust gases, the supercharger is a rigid connection with the engine, which causes power loss. However, at present, thanks to progress, both problems have almost no effect.
NITRO.
We have all seen cylinders with the inscription NOS and we know what is in these cylinders - nitric oxide, aka laughing gas. This gas is used to produce a richer fuel-air mixture. As a result, such a mixture contributes to a very active increase in engine power. Without going into the intricacies of nitrogen supply systems and the processes taking place at the same time, let's proceed directly to the description of the settings.
The supply pressure determines the force with which nitrogen oxide is added to the air/fuel mixture. Increasing pressure increases acceleration, but may cause the cylinders to empty quickly; low pressure may not be enough to perform the desired maneuver (overtaking or accelerating).
The exhaust rate determines the amount of nitrogen oxide that will be supplied to the fuel intake system. Increasing this setting also improves acceleration, but may cause loss of control or shift problems; reducing the feed rate will prolong the effect of the nitro, but will also reduce the power of this effect.
The combination of these two settings gives the maximum effect for different types of races: in drifting, it is desirable to reduce both settings to get a smooth and long drift; in high-speed races, a slight increase in pressure and speed will effectively bypass opponents; in dredge, the maximum increase of the two parameters, combined with the optimal setting of the gearbox, will achieve the best results.
3.3. Transmission.
Transmission is a chain of transmission of rotational energy from the engine to the drive wheelset. It starts with a clutch disc that connects the engine crankshaft and the gearbox input shaft, and ends with a differential that connects the driven shaft (in the case of front-wheel drive) or the cardan shaft (in the case of rear-wheel drive) to the wheel axle. The task of the transmission is to optimize the engine speed so that the car can start and move in any situation.
To start, a little introduction.
All interactions in the transmission are carried out with the help of gear connections. Imagine two gear wheels, one with 20 teeth, the other with 10. The initial rotation is reported to the large wheel, and it sets the small one in rotation. In this case, the larger wheel will be driving, and the small wheel will be driven. For one revolution of the large wheel, the small one will make two revolutions, that is, it will rotate faster. The ratio of the number of teeth between the driving and driven wheels is called the gear ratio and in this case will be 20:10 or 2:1. As a result, we will get an increase in transmission.
In the opposite situation, when the initial rotation is reported to the small wheel, and it drives the large one, for one revolution of the driving wheel, the driven wheel will turn only half, that is, it will rotate more slowly. The gear ratio will be 10:20 or 1:2 and we will get a downshift. Thus, by connecting different wheels, you can get different gear ratios. This is exactly what is implemented in the gearbox.
Designations:
clutch - clutch disc, layshaft - intermediate shaft (in two-shaft systems - drive), output shaft - driven shaft, selector fork - gear selector fork, dog gear - gear shift clutch, 1st ... 5th gear - gears.
The gears on the drive (intermediate) shaft are fixed rigidly and rotate constantly (except for gear changes when the clutch is disengaged). The gears on the driven shaft are in engagement with the driving ones, but they are in contact with the shaft itself through bearings. Thus, the rotation of the input shaft and the driven gears does not cause the rotation of the driven shaft. This task is performed by shift clutches, which can be moved along the shaft by means of shift forks. The forks themselves are directly connected to the derailleur. Moving the switch handle causes the corresponding clutch to move along the driven shaft and initiates the engagement of the latter with the driven gear of the transmission. As a result, the driven shaft begins to rotate at a speed proportional to the gear ratio. This is the basic principle of operation of a standard gearbox.
However, the converted rotational speed is still too much for the wheelset. To convert the resulting number of revolutions into an acceptable one (for gripping the wheels with the road surface), a differential is used. Its main task is to coordinate (differentiate) the rotation of the wheels of the driving wheelset during cornering: thanks to the geared decoupling of the axle, the wheels can rotate independently of each other. But we will consider only his work as the last downshift (final drive gear).
Designations:
input pinion gear - drive gear, ring gear - differential rotor, cage - differential box, left/right drive pinion - left/right axle gear, captive pinions - satellites.
The rotational movement from the driven shaft of the gearbox (or from the driveshaft in the case of rear-wheel drive) is transmitted through the input pinion gear to the differential rotor (ring gear). This sets the wheels of the car in motion, but due to the fact that the number of teeth on the rotor exceeds that on the drive gear, the gear is lowered, and, consequently, the speed of rotation of the wheels is reduced. Despite the fact that the gear is a reduction gear, the ratio is written in reverse, that is, with a 9-tooth drive gear and a 41-m driven gear, we get a gear ratio of 41:9 or 4.55:1. Let's move on to the settings of this group, which are divided into two subgroups:
- setting up the gearbox;
- Differential setting.
TRANSMISSION.
Gearbox tuning comes down to choosing the ratio between gears. Setting the knobs to the left (short) will allow you to quickly reach the high rpm required to shift into the next gear. Setting it to the right (tall) position will increase this time, allowing for faster speed. Frankly, this could have been written about right away, but I wanted to explain how the whole system works to help you avoid mistakes when choosing gear ratios. In conclusion, I note that the first gear is needed only to move the car from its place, while the rest are used for acceleration.
DIFFERENTIAL.
The situation is the same as with the gearbox: reducing (short) the final gear ratio will allow faster acceleration, but can lead to slippage at the start, especially with a powerful engine installed. Increasing (tall) this parameter will result in smooth acceleration and an increase in top speed.
3.4. brakes.
Brakes are needed to stop (or slow down) the car. Unlike the previous sections, I will not give any art and explanation - everything is clear here anyway.
BALANCING THE ACTIVATION OF THE BRAKES.
It is believed that in the neutral position of the regulator, all brakes are activated simultaneously. Theoretically, this should provide a smooth braking distance. Shifting the regulator towards the front brakes (front) will ensure their earlier operation in relation to the rear ones. As a result, we get a skid of the rear of the car and a possible improvement in steering. The result of shifting the adjuster towards the rear brakes will be front drift and more stability when braking at high speeds.
BRAKING FORCE.
In this case, it means the pressure with which the brake pads (calipers) are pressed against the brake drum or disc. Theoretically, the higher this pressure, the faster the car should stop (or slow down). In practice, this is only part of the process, but I will not focus on this. I will only note the fact that in order to cope with the increased braking force, it is necessary to “change shoes” on wheels with better rubber, otherwise the effect will not get the desired result. An important note: it is worth remembering that improving the braking system will allow you to perform more extreme maneuvers - braking at high speed a little later than your rivals. This is what I meant when I mentioned the increase in the results of passing races. An equally important note regarding the handbrake: the handbrake only works on the rear wheels. Its use is useful for drifting and for short winding distances, as it provides a fairly controlled skid. Increasing the pressure of the hand brake will provide a more abrupt operation. This is recommended for normal racing but not recommended for drifting. Applying too much handbrake pressure can cause the rear brakes to lock up and cause you to leave the track.
4. Conclusion.
Many will have a question: why is this all? After all, the game is a “failure”, a lot of graphic glitches, etc. etc. I will answer: the game itself is excellent. The graphical implementation is lame - yes, but the machine control system implemented in the game makes you think about the great work done by the developers. I'm not trying to convince someone to change their attitude to the game - this can only be done by one's own efforts. I just filled in a significant gap made by the developers - the lack of high-quality Russian-language documentation and a concise description of mechanical tuning. Whether I succeeded or not is up to you. In any case, thank you for taking the time to read the material presented.
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